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Bettany Hughes travels to Estonia. On board a ferry, Bettany travels to Saaremaa - Estonia's "Viking Island" - and discovers a sacred burial site with traces of human sacrifice. Back in Tallinn, she explores the history of a huge medieval shipwreck and visits the Niguliste Church Museum. To the west, Bettany explores the island of Kihnu, considered the last matriarchy in Europe.