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Paul Murton explores the Argyll coast, starting from the sacred sands of Kilmory Bay on Loch Sween, and including a visit to Lilly Loch in Knapdale Forest, where he sees some beaver, before joining a group of steam enthusiasts restoring an old Puffer on the Crinan Canal. Stone-age rock art leads him north to Loch Awe, where he drives a herd of highland cows towards his final destination - the mountainous heights of Ben Cruachan.